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A step by Step Tutorial On How Remove Man Weave By Adrin The Barber

 

A quick and simple tutorial for you today – and an essential for any barber who wants to learn how to apply a man weave safely and effectively. Once you’ve mastered the art of creating a man weave, you also need to be able to remove one properly. Don’t forget to check out Adrin’s video for how to do a man weave/brush wave too. 

 Step one: Start by having your client sit with their head back. Place a towel over their face, covering their eyes.  

Step two: Wearing rubber gloves, spray rubbing alcohol over the whole weave until the entire unit is saturated. 

Step three: Take a fine-tooth comb and start gently pulling back the hair. Go gently and gradually: it should come off quite easily, and your client shouldn’t feel much discomfort. Be sure to check in with them throughout the process so that you can make sure you’re not causing any pain.  

Step four: Use the rubbing alcohol and comb to scrape off any remaining glue and hair from the scalp. 

Step five: Give the scalp a good shampoo to get rid of any leftover adhesive. You can also use a small head massager to get rid of any small flakes of glue that might be leftover. 

 It’s that simple! Make sure that you understand how to remove the hair as well as how to affix it before you start performing this style for your clients. That will ensure that you’re prepared to give them the full service that they may need! This is a very simple process to master and can really help you to upskill as a barber. Good luck: don’t forget to subscribe to Adrin’s Youtube channel as well as mine WWW.BARBERS.TV for more educational videos that will help you learn and refresh your skills.  

A quick and simple tutorial for you today – and an essential for any barber who wants to learn how to apply a man weave safely and effectively. Once you’ve mastered the art of creating a man weave, you also need to be able to remove one properly. Don’t forget to check out my video for how to do a man weave/brush wave too. 

 

Step one: Start by having your client sit with their head back. Place a towel over their face, covering their eyes.  

Step two: Wearing rubber gloves, spray rubbing alcohol over the whole weave until the entire unit is saturated. 

Step three: Take a fine-tooth comb and start gently pulling back the hair. Go gently and gradually: it should come off quite easily, and your client shouldn’t feel much discomfort. Be sure to check in with them throughout the process so that you can make sure you’re not causing any pain.  

Step four: Use the rubbing alcohol and comb to scrape off any remaining glue and hair from the scalp. 

Step five: Give the scalp a good shampoo to get rid of any leftover adhesive. You can also use a small head massager to get rid of any small flakes of glue that might be leftover. 

 

It’s that simple! Make sure that you understand how to remove the hair as well as how to affix it before you start performing this style for your clients. That will ensure that you’re prepared to give them the full service that they may need! This is a very simple process to master and can really help you to upskill as a barber. Good luck: don’t forget to subscribe to the channel for more educational videos that will help you learn and refresh your skills.  

 

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How to man weave, brush weave hair on a male clients head – performed by Adrin The Barber

One popular trend that barbers need to be on top of is the man weave. Also known as ‘brush waves’, this is a hair replacement strategy that takes a little time to master but is easy once you know what to do. Whether you’re not sure where to start or you want to enhance your skills, this tutorial is for you! Here are the step by step instructions to help you give your clients excellent man weaves/brush waves. Follow these steps and, with a bit of practice, you can make sure that customers leave your barbershop with a smile!  

What you will need 

There are a few bits of equipment to gather before you start:  

  • An eyeliner pencil 
  • Thin electrical tape  
  • Skin protector 
  • Glue  
  • A wig cap 
  • A hairdryer 

… and, of course, the hair itself! Once you have all of that ready, you can dive straight in. 

 

Step one: Cut the existing hair 

You can really do any haircut that your client asks for at this point, but it’s important to think about what will look good with the weave. Since you’re going to be laying synthetic hair on top of the hair, you won’t be able to cut it any further once you’ve applied the weave. This means that it’s important to guide your client towards a cut that they will be happy with. A mid/high fade tends to work quite well.  

Step two: Mark the hairline 

If your client still has some of their natural hairline then you can use this as a guide. Otherwise, spend some time discussing where they would like the hairline to be. Once you have agreed, mark the line with your eyeliner pencil. Usually, the hairline will have receded to the point that you have to draw this from scratch, but if there is still a natural line to use for guidance it can speed up the process.  

Step three: Prepare the top of the head 

Shave the top of the head. Start at the ‘hairline’ you have drawn, and then move out across the rest of the head, creating a horseshoe shaped line around the skull. Keep this straight all the way around, as the aim is to create a natural looking hairline. Any inconsistency here will make the hair appear lopsided at the end, so make sure your cut is smooth and neat.  

Next, clean the scalp using rubbing alcohol. Make sure your cover the entire scalp, and then apply skin protector. This needs to go anywhere that’s going to have glue – which means you should put it over the whole scalp. Finally, wash off the eyeliner ‘hairline’ until it is only faintly visible, and then place electrical tape along the line.  

Step four: Add glue 

Add glue to the scalp. With the first layer of glue, you don’t need to go all the way to the hairline. Spread it out all over the head and then either let it air dry or use a dryer to speed up the process. Wait until the first layer is completely dry and then add a second layer.  The second layer of glue needs to go all the way to the hairline: apply it in the same way, spreading with a brush. It’s fine to get some of the glue onto the hair at the sides, and if you accidently get glue past the hairline at the front then you can use an old pair of shears to carefully wipe it off.  

Step five: Attach the hair 

Once the glue has started to dry – it should become clear and slightly tacky – it is ready for you to attach the hair. Take one strand at a time and carefully stretch the hair out just a little to create a natural wave formation. Take care to lay it precisely across the head, from front to back, and press gently but firmly into the glue. Lay the middle strand first, and then work out towards one side. It’s important to ensure that all the waves you place are consistent with one and other, as this will ensure that the hair looks natural.   

If necessary, you can place a wave over the natural hair too to make sure that the transition is natural. Once you’ve finished one side, you can go back to the centre and work in the other direction. Again, it is important to make sure that every wave is uniform. Stretching the curls out just the right amount and then laying them in a consistent way can take a bit of practice – so use a mannequin first until you an get it right every time.  

Once you’ve got the practice, this process should only take around ten minutes. It really doesn’t have to be that time consuming! When all the hair is laid, you can trim off the loose ends from the front and back of the head.  

Step six: Dry the hair 

Start by pressing all of the hair into the scalp firmly with the palm of your hand. Then, apply the hairdryer for a few minutes before placing a wig cap over the top of hair. Let the client sit for around ten minutes with the cap over their hair, blow dry over the top for around five minutes, and then let it sit for another ten minutes. This compresses the hair into the glue to help it stick. When you’re done, use scissors to remove the cap when it’s done rather than simply pulling it off your head.  

Step seven: Style 

Use an old pair of clippers that you don’t mind snagging to go over the hair and make it look as natural as possible. As you go over it, you’ll see that the hair starts to blend well with the natural hair and stops looking false. Take the edges down a little bit shorter to help the sides properly. At this stage, take your time – it takes a lot of work to get this far, so you should make sure that you don’t mess it up in the final stages.  

 

Ultimately, practice makes perfect with this kind of style. Put the time in working on a mannequin, and you’ll have the confidence when it comes to actually styling a real client. This is a great thing to master, because it can really transform a person’s look. Let me know how you get on, and don’t forget to subscribe to Adrin’s Youtube channel for new straightforward barbering tutorials or visit my website http://www.larrythebarberman.com for all thing barbering 

By Larry The barber Man

 

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Barbers: Chris Bossio and Christian Perez popular with their employees and barbers everywhere

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YouTube has been a huge part of the revolution in men’s grooming and one reason I wanted to meet Chris Bossio and Christian Perez of ‘Headlines’ in Florida is their natural feel for good video.  Christian has an instinct for using the camera in amusing ways, and Chris had the brilliant idea of “Wifey Challenge,” where their wives cut the barbers’ hair, all posted on their channels, of course. Great video and hilarious fun!

But these two long-time partners are all business when it comes to business, telling me when we met at Connecticut Barber Expo 2017 that they started out as disgruntled barbers in someone else’s shop.

“We’d gather in the lunch room (that’s back room to us Brits!) to complain, and I’d always say, ‘One day, I am going to have my own shop,” Christian Perez says. “Chris is the kind of person who says, ‘There isn’t a ‘one day.’  There is only now. So seize the moment and run with it.’ He pushed me.”

Chris: “We got to the point where we were like, ‘Hey, let’s do it.'”

Seven shops, separate YouTube channels and more than 100,000 followers later, the two men are focused, forward looking, and generous, making major contributions to the industry.  More on that later.  First, I wanted to know what it was like opening that first shop.

Christian: “First shop, first day, first hour – major rainstorm. The power went out in the entire plaza halfway through a haircut. They say it’s good luck if it rains on your wedding day.  I didn’t think it was good luck on your first business day. I didn’t think we were going to make it.”

But Chris Bossio, who abandoned a full college basketball scholarship to pursue a barbering career, brought his athletic-style leadership to the situation.

“I was trying to be the strong one,” he remembers. “I was saying, ‘Hey, don’t worry about it. We’re good. Don’t worry about it.’”

“Inside, I’m thinking, ‘Am I going to have to get a side job at Walmart or something?’”

To you budding entrepreneurs out there, Chris says anxiety is just a natural part of the game. ”I’m thinking, ‘How am I going to pay my bills? Dang, did we mess up?’  ‘Cuz it looks like the grass is not greener on the other side. It gets scary.”

“But six months later we opened up eight chairs,” Perez laughs, “And Chris was saying, ‘Hey, we are going to have twelve barbers!”  I thought he was crazy, ‘cuz I am trying to figure out how to feed eight families, not 12. Six months later we had to remove the pool table and add two more stations, and today, yes, we have twelve barbers in that store.”

Chris:  “There is so much a volume now, it’s just ridiculous. There is no break, there is no time at that shop.  It’s busy Monday through Saturday.”

Ah, yes, Saturday.  By Saturday night, most barbers are dead on their feet and looking forward to a little relaxation. But that’s where these two separate themselves from the pack, and I don’t mean by staying open late to hustle more clients.  I mean by being amazingly generous, even altruistic.

Christian: “For months, we would shut down the shop at the end of the day and do hands-on classes with students or whoever wanted to come in, and we would do it for free, live on Instagram.”

Chris: “We allowed anyone, regardless of what shop you worked at,  whoever you were, to come to our barber shop on Saturday nights, bring a model with you, and we will do hands-on workshops for free.”

Perez: “Not just hands-on, but networking and how to build clientele and how to set up your station correctly, how to conduct yourself.”

Crazy?  Chris says some barbers wonder way the two are so giving.  “They say, ‘It should be sold, not told,’” he says.

“I just tell people, ‘I live life like that. You guys play 2k when you get home from work because that is what you enjoy doing. I will stay after and make YouTube videos. Being in the shop, cutting hair, making videos, it’s what I love to do.”

Which brings me to the unique Headlines ethos. I’d heard the pair are very popular with employees and never fire anyone.  True?

Christian: “A  lot of people throw the word ‘family’ around but we take it seriously. When we were working for someone else, we felt like we were being held back, so we agreed we want our shops to be a collection of individual brands.  When someone wants to build up their personal brand, start a YouTube channel, reach out and grow, we are here to help.”

“We have seven barbers that have gone on to open their own shops, and we have told them, ‘We want to help you find the chairs.’ The hurdles we have gone through when you open the first, the second and third, you learn from each one and we share that. I think that creates a culture where employees want to help you, because you are helping them.”

That spirit was on full display in Hartford, where Chris and Christian rented an RV and invited any of their barbers who was interested to come along.  How many owners do that?

Chris: “We are dedicated to helping. We don’t fire people. Other barbers are like “What?”  I say ‘No, we don’t fire people. If you don’t want to be part of the culture here you are going to be miserable, and if you are miserable making more money, if you are miserable in a place that has no ceiling…”

Christian finishes the thought: “You just stick out like a sore thumb so bad, you kind of fire yourself.”

After 4-and-a-half-years and seven thriving shops, what’s cooking with Chris and Christian these days?  They are focused on their new product line, ‘245,’ an unusual name that shows their passion for barber respect.  That story starts with that basketball scholarship I mentioned near the top.

Chris:  “I had a full ride, and I quit after a year to go to barber school. That is the most depressing thing I could ever tell my Dad as far as he was concerned.  For years, he would tell my family in Columbia and Puerto Rico that I was an engineer.  He didn’t tell them I was a barber.”

“I did some research and discovered that in ancient Egypt, there was a statue of a very respected man, a barber named  Merryma’at,” he continues. “To this day, that statue is at the University of Pennsylvania museum. The man was given a tomb at a time only priests, royalty and high society had a tomb. As they were discovered by archeologists, the tombs were given numbers, and Merryma’at was Tomb 245.”

“We stayed honest to that with the name of our products and apparel, showing people that our craft has a history of respect and honor. We are bringing that back.”

Meanwhile, 245 has its own great history, starting in Chris’ kitchen as the team scrambled for a spot at Orlando Premiere.

“I asked Orlando what it would take to teach a class and they gave me an astronomical number I couldn’t get my head around,” Chris recalls. “I realized the only people who can afford it were selling products.”

The team started a Headlines legend by creating a shave (WORD?) from scratch in 30 days to make the Premiere deadline. “There is a video on his channel that documents it,” Christian says. “There was no product, no label, no bottle. We made it in his kitchen; 2500 bottles, capping by hand, putting stickers on. It was collaborative team work.”

Once they were in at Orlando, the 245 brand started to grow and quickly became a focus of Chris’ passion for legacy.

“I want to break down barriers, I want to be an innovator in the industry,” he says. “The last thing I want to do is pass away and my children’s children don’t even know who I am.  My children’s children’s children will never even hear my name. I feel life is such a great thing, we are so lucky to have life, and if you don’t live it to the fullest, how can you leave a legacy?”

There is so much more these two driven and passionate individuals have to say, such as the story of Chris’ initial terror of straight razors and their sharp remarks about the negative impact of trolls in the industry.  But you will have to check the whole interview on YouTube a@Larrythebareberman to take it all in.

I wanted to know, as I always do, what their advice is to barbers coming up.

Chris:  “Number one, you have to look at things like a businessman and put yourself out there. You’ve got to stop thinking so much and DO more.  More action. Don’t be the guy who talks. You have to DO it, and you’ve got be consistent with it. It is action over everything.”

Christian:  “I agree.  Learn from your failures. Don’t be afraid to fail. You are going to get better.”

And as for respect?  “Well,” Chris laughs. “My Dad is telling my family I am a barber, now.”

Thanks, guys!  I hope you enjoyed this interview as much as I did.   I can’t wait to bring you another of my conversations with people across the globe who are making barbering a fascinating, always-changing world.

Til next time, happy barbering!

 

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HOW-TO: SWAPPING THE ANDIS SLIMLINE PRO LITE CORDLESS TRIMMER BLADE WITH THE CORDED ANDIS T-OUTLINER BLADE

Welcome to another Larry the Barberman How-To Tutorial!  Today, I’ll show you how to replace the blade on the Andis SlimLine Pro Cordless Trimmer with the blade of the corded T Outliner.

You may want to do this to give you a wider cutting area, and it’s also great for boarding out, requiring fewer strokes due to the wider tooth.

This is not a difficult job but it requires a bit more precision and a few more tools than most of my how-to’s.

Head for the Toolshed!

You will need:

  • A drill with a 3.5 drill bit
  • A small and a medium Phillips screwdriver
  • A Stanley knife (or box cutter, as it’s called in America)
  • Sandpaper
  • Trimmer oil
  • My old friend, a corrugated rubber mat to hold loose screws and parts so they don’t get lost.

Remember, for clarification, you can see a step by step demo of this process on my YouTube @larrythebarberman.

Let’s get down to it!

First, unscrew the two screws at the base of the blade, remove the blade and set the screws aside.

Turn your attention to the blade itself.  Remove the two screws you see on the blade assembly, and you have divided it into two. One piece is the SlimLine blade, which you can put aside as no longer needed.

Turn your attention to the remaining piece.

You will see the clamped cutting blade on the spring.  Pull the spring out and you will find yourself holding not only the spring but the attached guide plate, which is black and T-shaped. It has two square holes along the bar of the T and two smaller metal holes along the tail of the T. You need to separate the guide plate and the spring by pulling them apart, and setting them aside.

Turn your attention back to the blade.  You will see a black molding attached to it. You have to remove this, which you do by simply twisting it off.

Now the fun begins!  It’s time to modify the SlimLine Pro Lite parts to accommodate the T Outliner blade.

Turn your attention to the black molding you just removed from the SlimLine blade. You will see two pegs or studs sticking out. These match holes on the SlimLine cutting blade, but now we can’t use them; the T Outliner blade does not have holes to accommodate them.  So, off with their little heads!

Use the Stanley knife or box cutter for this job, but BE CAREFUL!  Place the molding on a surface and cut AWAY from yourself.  Cut it as closely to the base as possible, and then use sandpaper to smooth the leftover ridge to make it even with the surface of the molding.

Time for the Heavy Artillery!

Now, pick up the guide plate (That’s the black T-shaped thing with the square holes and the round holes). We need to elongate the two metallic holes that are in the tail of the T, and you need to elongate them in the direction of the bottom of the T, away from the bar of the T (where the square holes are)

To do this, it’s time for the drill with the 3.5 drill bit.

Grasp the guide by the bar of the T (where the square holes are) with thumb and finger. Place the drill bit into the bottom hole (furthest from the bar of the T) and turn it on, putting pressure on the bottom of the hole, moving the drill back and forth to wear away the metal, elongating the hole. This takes 15 or 20 seconds of drill time.

Now the other hole, nearest the T bar. You want to elongate it all the way down to the raised metallic line that separates the holes. This may take an extra ten seconds or so.

Stanley Knife, Act 2

Now that you have prepared the holes, turn your attention to the black plastic border around the tail of the T.  You will notice that the inside of the plastic border intrudes ever so slightly over the edge of your holes.  You need to shave this plastic down with the Stanley knife so that when the screws are back in pace, they will not be resting on the plastic edges. You want a nice, snug fit.

Now, pick up the molding (the small black plastic piece whose nubs we cut off) and rest it against the cutting blade, which is the rounded part.

Next, pick up the guide plate (the T-shaped piece you used the drill on) and place it under the cutting blade, resting it underneath the ledge of the cutting blade.  Hold all of this in your left hand (if you are right handed) while you pick up the spring.

You will notice a hairpin shape in the spring.  Place that hairpin over the tail of the T so that the ends of the spring rest on the grooves on each side of the black molding. Then give the spring a push forward into the grooves of the molding, and you have secured the molding against cutting blade.

Now you are in the same position you normally are with the T Outliner blade when you are ready to screw them together. You will notice as you do this that all the screws are visible. If you had not drilled and elongated the holes and shaved the lip, you would not be able to get the screws in there!

Now just put them down flat into the zero gap position, and re insert the screws from the SlimLine Pro Line blade and screw them together. You want to get this tight, but leave a little looseness so you can tighten slowly, first one screw, then the other, back and forth, so you keep the position of the zero gap.

You did it!

 

All you do now is secure the blade onto the SlimLine body and you are set!  You’ve zero-gapped the SlimLine Pro Lite, which has been replaced with the T Outliner blade.

I hope you find this useful to you as you continue to sharpen our barbering skills. You can also see this entire How-To Tutorial  step-by-step on video on my YouTube @larrythebarberman.

I’m aiming to get a new ‘How-To’ video and blog up every week, so be sure to check back!  Until then, happy barbering!

 

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My Latest How To: Fixing Faulty Switches on Your Andis T Outliner

As I ramp up my how-to videos again, I want to jump on a very easy-to-fix problem that frustrates barbers who don’t know how to make this simple repair.

The problem is perceived as a ‘broken switch’ on the Andis T Outliner that is loose, or when flipped to the ‘on’ position, automatically flips back and won’t stay on.

This is almost always fixed by tightening a single screw on the inside of the machine’s housing.  That’s what we’ll talk about today.

(To see the demonstration of how to do this on video, head over to my YouTube @larrythebarberman)

You will need two simple tools: a small Phillips screwdriver and a torque screwdriver with a #10 head, which is a simple star-shaped screwdriver head you’ve doubtless seen many times, even if you don’t know its name.

I always advise that you WORK WITH A CORRUGATED MAP OR TOWEL so you have a non-slip place for screws or any other small parts so you don’t lose them.

First, UNPLUG the trimmer!  This basic safety step is surprisingly easy to forget.

The UK T Outliner has four screws on the back of the case; the American version has two – one on top and one on the bottom.

Remove the screws and gently fold over the back of the housing.  I say ‘gently’ because the wires inside are extremely delicate. Next, lift the main power supply from the base inside of the clipper, and lift out the hooking ring.

Now, turn your attention to the mainly hollow back of the housing, the part you just removed.  Bracketed against the bottom with one screw is the switching mechanism giving you all the trouble!  Remove that screw and lift off the bracket, then gently ease the switch itself out of the back of the case.

You will see one screw remains in the trimmer housing, and that is the one we are after. You can easily see that the screw is attached to the lever on the outside of the casing. In all probability, this screw is loose, which is causing the flipping, looseness or inability of the lever to hold its position.

Now, just tighten that screw with the torque screwdriver with the #10 head, turning clockwise.  Turn over the case and test the lever. You will see it now has a tight feel and will hold its position.  See? You did it!

Now, let’s close up shop.

First, we need to put the switch back into the housing. It is REALLY IMPORTANT that you focus carefully and take a few moments to get this right!

On the inside of the housing, above the screw you just tightened, you will see  two L-shaped plastic ridges which face each other, and between them two plastic pins. The switch needs to go into the enclosure outlined by the L-shaped ridges, atop the pins, nice and snug.

Next, the bracket. You will notice cutouts on the left and right side of the bracket. They align with the brown and red wires respectively, so place the red wire in place through the left cutout, and hold it with your thumb while you place the right bracket cutout over the brown wire. You have to be a bit dexterous, but when it is aligned correctly, the bracket will click nicely into place.

Now you need to pin the bracket back down, using one screw through the center hole.

As a final test, flip it over and make sure the lever is nice and tight and is making the correct clicking noise.  IMPORTANT:  If that switch is NOT locked in the housing correctly, the lever will move to the left and right without a sound, and will NOT turn the trimmer on and off!

With the brown and red wires locked in, and the lever behaving appropriately, reach for the hooking ring.  This is the first piece going into the other side, or guts, of the casing – where the armature and motor are.  Ensuring it is facing downwards, place the ring correctly into notch at the base. Then place the rubber molding that surrounds the main outlet wire snugly into the notch.

You are now ready to put the casing together again. The trick here is to make sure the wires are NOT OVER THE MOTOR before you close, so use your screwdriver to gently tuck the red wire down the side of the armature where the brown wire is, making sure the brown wire is not over the hook.

When everything is neatly packaged, you are ready to fit the two bits of casing together again. Simply line up the grooves where they fit.  WATCH OUT!  Sometimes the wires will pop out. Gently use the screwdriver to pop them back in. Now, hold the back down with fingers and thumb and turn it over gently.

You can now put in all your screws.  Start with one corner and tighten, then move to a diagonal corner to tighten another. That gives you the freedom to release the tension of your finger and thumb holding it down.

And there you go!  You’ll hear that lever merrily clicking and now actually holding its position. Plug it in, turn it on, and you are back to having a great time being a great barber!

I’ve got many more of these useful videos on the way, so please subscribe to my YOUTUBE channel to see them all PLUS my amazing and inspiring interviews with successful and famous barbers all over the UK and the world.

If there are topics you want to see covered in one of my How-To Videos, email me directly at info@larrythebarberman.com.

 

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