Welcome to another Larry the Barberman How-To Tutorial! Today, I’ll show you how to replace the blade on the Andis SlimLine Pro Cordless Trimmer with the blade of the corded T Outliner.
You may want to do this to give you a wider cutting area, and it’s also great for boarding out, requiring fewer strokes due to the wider tooth.
This is not a difficult job but it requires a bit more precision and a few more tools than most of my how-to’s.
Head for the Toolshed!
You will need:
- A drill with a 3.5 drill bit
- A small and a medium Phillips screwdriver
- A Stanley knife (or box cutter, as it’s called in America)
- Trimmer oil
- My old friend, a corrugated rubber mat to hold loose screws and parts so they don’t get lost.
Remember, for clarification, you can see a step by step demo of this process on my YouTube @larrythebarberman.
Let’s get down to it!
First, unscrew the two screws at the base of the blade, remove the blade and set the screws aside.
Turn your attention to the blade itself. Remove the two screws you see on the blade assembly, and you have divided it into two. One piece is the SlimLine blade, which you can put aside as no longer needed.
Turn your attention to the remaining piece.
You will see the clamped cutting blade on the spring. Pull the spring out and you will find yourself holding not only the spring but the attached guide plate, which is black and T-shaped. It has two square holes along the bar of the T and two smaller metal holes along the tail of the T. You need to separate the guide plate and the spring by pulling them apart, and setting them aside.
Turn your attention back to the blade. You will see a black molding attached to it. You have to remove this, which you do by simply twisting it off.
Now the fun begins! It’s time to modify the SlimLine Pro Lite parts to accommodate the T Outliner blade.
Turn your attention to the black molding you just removed from the SlimLine blade. You will see two pegs or studs sticking out. These match holes on the SlimLine cutting blade, but now we can’t use them; the T Outliner blade does not have holes to accommodate them. So, off with their little heads!
Use the Stanley knife or box cutter for this job, but BE CAREFUL! Place the molding on a surface and cut AWAY from yourself. Cut it as closely to the base as possible, and then use sandpaper to smooth the leftover ridge to make it even with the surface of the molding.
Time for the Heavy Artillery!
Now, pick up the guide plate (That’s the black T-shaped thing with the square holes and the round holes). We need to elongate the two metallic holes that are in the tail of the T, and you need to elongate them in the direction of the bottom of the T, away from the bar of the T (where the square holes are)
To do this, it’s time for the drill with the 3.5 drill bit.
Grasp the guide by the bar of the T (where the square holes are) with thumb and finger. Place the drill bit into the bottom hole (furthest from the bar of the T) and turn it on, putting pressure on the bottom of the hole, moving the drill back and forth to wear away the metal, elongating the hole. This takes 15 or 20 seconds of drill time.
Now the other hole, nearest the T bar. You want to elongate it all the way down to the raised metallic line that separates the holes. This may take an extra ten seconds or so.
Stanley Knife, Act 2
Now that you have prepared the holes, turn your attention to the black plastic border around the tail of the T. You will notice that the inside of the plastic border intrudes ever so slightly over the edge of your holes. You need to shave this plastic down with the Stanley knife so that when the screws are back in pace, they will not be resting on the plastic edges. You want a nice, snug fit.
Now, pick up the molding (the small black plastic piece whose nubs we cut off) and rest it against the cutting blade, which is the rounded part.
Next, pick up the guide plate (the T-shaped piece you used the drill on) and place it under the cutting blade, resting it underneath the ledge of the cutting blade. Hold all of this in your left hand (if you are right handed) while you pick up the spring.
You will notice a hairpin shape in the spring. Place that hairpin over the tail of the T so that the ends of the spring rest on the grooves on each side of the black molding. Then give the spring a push forward into the grooves of the molding, and you have secured the molding against cutting blade.
Now you are in the same position you normally are with the T Outliner blade when you are ready to screw them together. You will notice as you do this that all the screws are visible. If you had not drilled and elongated the holes and shaved the lip, you would not be able to get the screws in there!
Now just put them down flat into the zero gap position, and re insert the screws from the SlimLine Pro Line blade and screw them together. You want to get this tight, but leave a little looseness so you can tighten slowly, first one screw, then the other, back and forth, so you keep the position of the zero gap.
You did it!
All you do now is secure the blade onto the SlimLine body and you are set! You’ve zero-gapped the SlimLine Pro Lite, which has been replaced with the T Outliner blade.
I hope you find this useful to you as you continue to sharpen our barbering skills. You can also see this entire How-To Tutorial step-by-step on video on my YouTube @larrythebarberman.
I’m aiming to get a new ‘How-To’ video and blog up every week, so be sure to check back! Until then, happy barbering!
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