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How to man weave, brush weave hair on a male clients head – performed by Adrin The Barber

One popular trend that barbers need to be on top of is the man weave. Also known as ‘brush waves’, this is a hair replacement strategy that takes a little time to master but is easy once you know what to do. Whether you’re not sure where to start or you want to enhance your skills, this tutorial is for you! Here are the step by step instructions to help you give your clients excellent man weaves/brush waves. Follow these steps and, with a bit of practice, you can make sure that customers leave your barbershop with a smile!  

What you will need 

There are a few bits of equipment to gather before you start:  

  • An eyeliner pencil 
  • Thin electrical tape  
  • Skin protector 
  • Glue  
  • A wig cap 
  • A hairdryer 

… and, of course, the hair itself! Once you have all of that ready, you can dive straight in. 

 

Step one: Cut the existing hair 

You can really do any haircut that your client asks for at this point, but it’s important to think about what will look good with the weave. Since you’re going to be laying synthetic hair on top of the hair, you won’t be able to cut it any further once you’ve applied the weave. This means that it’s important to guide your client towards a cut that they will be happy with. A mid/high fade tends to work quite well.  

Step two: Mark the hairline 

If your client still has some of their natural hairline then you can use this as a guide. Otherwise, spend some time discussing where they would like the hairline to be. Once you have agreed, mark the line with your eyeliner pencil. Usually, the hairline will have receded to the point that you have to draw this from scratch, but if there is still a natural line to use for guidance it can speed up the process.  

Step three: Prepare the top of the head 

Shave the top of the head. Start at the ‘hairline’ you have drawn, and then move out across the rest of the head, creating a horseshoe shaped line around the skull. Keep this straight all the way around, as the aim is to create a natural looking hairline. Any inconsistency here will make the hair appear lopsided at the end, so make sure your cut is smooth and neat.  

Next, clean the scalp using rubbing alcohol. Make sure your cover the entire scalp, and then apply skin protector. This needs to go anywhere that’s going to have glue – which means you should put it over the whole scalp. Finally, wash off the eyeliner ‘hairline’ until it is only faintly visible, and then place electrical tape along the line.  

Step four: Add glue 

Add glue to the scalp. With the first layer of glue, you don’t need to go all the way to the hairline. Spread it out all over the head and then either let it air dry or use a dryer to speed up the process. Wait until the first layer is completely dry and then add a second layer.  The second layer of glue needs to go all the way to the hairline: apply it in the same way, spreading with a brush. It’s fine to get some of the glue onto the hair at the sides, and if you accidently get glue past the hairline at the front then you can use an old pair of shears to carefully wipe it off.  

Step five: Attach the hair 

Once the glue has started to dry – it should become clear and slightly tacky – it is ready for you to attach the hair. Take one strand at a time and carefully stretch the hair out just a little to create a natural wave formation. Take care to lay it precisely across the head, from front to back, and press gently but firmly into the glue. Lay the middle strand first, and then work out towards one side. It’s important to ensure that all the waves you place are consistent with one and other, as this will ensure that the hair looks natural.   

If necessary, you can place a wave over the natural hair too to make sure that the transition is natural. Once you’ve finished one side, you can go back to the centre and work in the other direction. Again, it is important to make sure that every wave is uniform. Stretching the curls out just the right amount and then laying them in a consistent way can take a bit of practice – so use a mannequin first until you an get it right every time.  

Once you’ve got the practice, this process should only take around ten minutes. It really doesn’t have to be that time consuming! When all the hair is laid, you can trim off the loose ends from the front and back of the head.  

Step six: Dry the hair 

Start by pressing all of the hair into the scalp firmly with the palm of your hand. Then, apply the hairdryer for a few minutes before placing a wig cap over the top of hair. Let the client sit for around ten minutes with the cap over their hair, blow dry over the top for around five minutes, and then let it sit for another ten minutes. This compresses the hair into the glue to help it stick. When you’re done, use scissors to remove the cap when it’s done rather than simply pulling it off your head.  

Step seven: Style 

Use an old pair of clippers that you don’t mind snagging to go over the hair and make it look as natural as possible. As you go over it, you’ll see that the hair starts to blend well with the natural hair and stops looking false. Take the edges down a little bit shorter to help the sides properly. At this stage, take your time – it takes a lot of work to get this far, so you should make sure that you don’t mess it up in the final stages.  

 

Ultimately, practice makes perfect with this kind of style. Put the time in working on a mannequin, and you’ll have the confidence when it comes to actually styling a real client. This is a great thing to master, because it can really transform a person’s look. Let me know how you get on, and don’t forget to subscribe to Adrin’s Youtube channel for new straightforward barbering tutorials or visit my website http://www.larrythebarberman.com for all thing barbering 

By Larry The barber Man

 

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Hair Stylist Mark Bustos Talks To Larry After Trimming The Homeless In London

When he’s at work at an upscale hair salon in Chelsea, Manhattan, Mark Bustos can charge up to $200 dollars per haircut, offering a premium service with his well-honed barbering skills. Impressive though this may be, what’s really remarkable about Mark is that this is only one side to his barbering mission – and today I want to talk about what Mark does with the rest of his time.

That’s because, when Mark isn’t at work he spends a lot of his time travelling to different cities around the world doing what’s colloquially known as street barbering: offering free haircuts to homeless people, as well as others who find themselves in a vulnerable position, such as people in hospitals.

Recently, Mark was in London working in conjunction with the Crisis homelessness charity and Cut Festival to offer haircuts to London’s homeless population, with another exceptional barber – Kevin Luchmun – at his side. This was my opportunity to finally meet him and find out a lot more about why he does what he does and the story of his work.

It all started back in 2012; Mark was in the Philippines visiting family members when he struck upon a simple way to use his skills to help people in the community. “I rented out a chair in a little barber shop and just invited homeless kids up off the street, cutting hair for them. Ever since that day I just realised wow, I can travel anywhere in the world with my gift and a pair of scissors and make people happy.”

Even if it had ended there, Mark’s story would be pretty inspirational – instead, in the five years since this initial experiment, he’s found more and more ways to use barbering as a tool to help others regain their sense of self and see that somebody cares enough to spend some time with them. This stems from a desire to help others, and although it’s underpinned by barbering, it doesn’t necessarily begin or end with a haircut:

“I really don’t pick and choose: If I find someone who seems like the need help then I’m going to do what I can to help them out. Almost make it seem like they’re a family member or really good friend who’s at rock bottom – like imagine that was my Grandfather out on the street and he needed help; how would I approach him, how would I talk to him, what kind of energy would I have. It’s really all about that human connection – and hair stylists can really understand that human connection when it comes to doing any sort of service for a client. If they don’t want a haircut then that’s fine too – I’ll get them food, or whatever they need and then move on.”

To me it seems clear that Mark is gifted with a rare set of skills that make him the ideal person to work with those in vulnerable situations; he is able to talk to people, gain their trust and put them at their ease. However, this doesn’t mean that other barbers shouldn’t try to help their own communities in similar ways, and this is something that Mark is keen to encourage. He tells me that it’s not about him or the work that he does, but rather about building up a movement of people helping in their own ways, under the banner of his #BeAwesometoSomebody campaign.

He also shares some advice for people who may be unsure of how to start giving something back: “That just really comes with meeting new people and stepping out of your comfort zone: when you’re in your comfort zone not much is really going to happen. Travelling around the world and putting myself in all kinds of crazy situations taught me so much about myself and others: so my advice is to travel, learn and share what you know, and just give – because when you give you get a lot more than when you receive.”

In just a short ten-minute interview, Mark packed in so much inspirational information so I really encourage you to take a breather out of your busy day and see what he had to say. If the clip inspires you as much as it did me, then you can find Mark on Instagram @MarkBustos. For more motivational barbering clips, you should also follow me on YouTube, Instagram and Facebook. For today, though, I’m going to leave you with the thing that stuck with me most from Mark’s interview – his most memorable moment from the time that he’s spent out on the road:

“One of the most impactful things was working out in a cemetery out in the Philippines, where there are children living without parents, just looking after themselves. The biggest thing that I learned there was that being so financially poor, these people were the happiest people I’ve met.”

 

USEFUL BARBER LINKS

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Barber Videos: http://www.barbers.tv

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http://www.larrythebarberman.com  ( My Online Store )

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Barber Blogs:  http://www.frequency60hz.com/blog

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info@frequency60hz.com

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